A couple of questions from a potential new player


#101

Hero+unstoppable is a great basis for a combat-capable character, fighting with a two-handed weapon depends on nation, in Urizen you’d fit right in, second line behind the shieldbearers, other nations may vary. Possible XP spends could be extra hero points or fortitude. It would be good to have heavy armour. Artisan skills absolutely no idea, I’m on the demand rather than supply end of that market :slight_smile:


#102

Hmmm…

Hero (2)
Unstoppable (2)
Artisan (4)

Artisans Oil
(0) Warriors plate (+1 endurance)
(7) Reaving Mattock (1 free Impale a day, 2-hander)
(12) Alderman’s Edge
(21) Thundering Mace (1 free Strikedown a day, 1-hander)

Hmm, it’s a solid build. I threw Thundering Mace in there as an example. If you’ve Warriors plate on then you’ll be (2 + 4 + 1) 7 hits, which is a good solid start for a fighter, and with a 2 hander you should be able to keep the range. As for your 2 handed weapon, it depends whether you want the offensive way to burn hero points (Butchers Cleaver) or the reduced offence and spare Hero points for Unstoppable from (Reaving Mattock).

Personally, I’d start with the Mattock. If you want, you can likely buy a Cleaver, or spend xp to get an extra recipie or more Endurance, or buy some potions to up your resilience, in play.

This means you start with a good defence and grow your offence in play, which increases your characters chances to survive the first event or two.

What nation are you headed for, and what group therin?


#103

Thundering Maces are awesome, I had one with a single event left on it at e3, that strikedown at the correct moment is a very good way to disrupt an enemy line, so you’ll probably be able to shift those.


#104

We were very strongly considering Urizen, I really like the idea, the new sword priests sound cool too. There were however some things in the brief that probably aren’t as drastic when you’re at Anvil as they seem on paper - we prefered not to ruin other people’s immersion though. It might still be an option when the first character for me and the wife dies ( that or orcs! :wink: nah, she’d never let me… ), for now however we decided for Wintermark.

Wife’s going to be, or planning to be an archer + chirurgeon + physick, helping out where she can.

When it comes to the groups well we have no idea, didn’t exactly research yet. Hopefully a group that enjoys cake as I’ll be trying to ship lots of it! Maybe you guys can recommend some?

Have to agree, strikedown sounds very good and very tactical, opening a shield wall sounds amazing!


#105

In terms of the Urizen brief, it really depends what you mean in terms of drastic, it is not an easy brief but is very fun ic.


#106

Hey guys, wondering about what kind of an armour to get, so I have a question:

  • Is a coat of plates considered medium or heavy armour?
  • Is a lammelar armour considered medium or heavy armour?

#107

That depends on the material - the entries on the wiki go into detail: https://www.profounddecisions.co.uk/empire-wiki/Weapons_%26_armour#Medium_Armour


#108

Sadly the wiki brings me more questions then answers which is why I end up here all the time. Ah well, was worth a try.


#109

Yup it depends on the weight, standard coat of plates using metal other than aluminium would be heavy and likewise lammelar made out of steel or similar weight metal would be heavy too.


#110

If it’s plates or iron/steel/similar, then it’s heavy.

If it’s leather with an average thickness of less than 3mm, then it’s light armour.

And there’s a huge pile of stuff in the middle: Heavy leathers, cuirboilli, aluminium armour, resin plate, some of the more interesting things such as wood :slight_smile:

Note that these can be of any amount of coverage.

To protect against CLEAVE or IMPALE blows, the blow just need to hit the piece of the tough enough armour.

To give you extra hits, it needs to cover the whole of your torso + 1 location. Examples = torso + helm, torso + shinguards + bracers, torso + upper legs + upper arms (a long hauberk, for instance).

If you give us some photos and details of what it’s made from, we can give you a better guess…

…but essentially governing exactly what your armour counts as (because it’s hardly standardised) will be the call of a ref.


#111

Basically the idea is either to go lamellar if brigandine would be questioned.

Brigandine would be 1mm steel plates riveted into a leather jacket that’s yet to become a leather vest ( getting rid of the sleeves, collar and the middle part with the zipper ). Now, it’s made primarily out of leather as it is a leather well jacket for now. The protective part though whould be 1mm steel plates, as I mentioned riveted in. Would that suffice for heavy armour?

It being a question for a ref on site is tricky as I would be spending quite a bit of money and a lot of time to make this project if I decide to do so, if only to be told that it doesn’t qualify as what I was aiming for at the end of the process well it would not be a very happy decision for me. Would rather avoid that situation.

patterns for brigandines - is what I was looking at.


#112

Officially, I think the answer is that nobody can tell you exactly if armour would count as heavy other than a ref in the field.

Unofficially, yeah a 1mm steel brig would count as heavy. What nation are you looking to join?


#113

1mm steel plate is heavy. Leather is light. How much plate you need to attach to turn it into heavy… is unknown, but I suspect it’d be 90%+ coverage

Those patterns look pretty good. I’d go for the 14th century one, for ease of construction.

Note also that for rivetted stuff, you want some nice smooth finishes. The refs check these by running their hands over them and not encountering sharp edges. Same applies to the edges of the armour plate.

Years ago, in a different system, I tried making lorica using inverted drinks cans. In that case I fell afoul of a minimum armour thickness of the plates: it was so thin (even with gaffa tape edging) it was liable to cut someone.

The uncertainty as to what the finished result would count as is one reason why making your own armour is rarely a good investment. Making weaponry is even more uncertain…


#114

@Noodle
Me and the wife will be joining wintermark, could you recommend any groups by chance?

@Geoffrey_Willoughby
Impale coverage would be nice, not sure about smooth finishes as I never did any leatherworking or stuff like this before. My idea was to have the metal bits ordered in so hopefully they wont be sharp, rivet them into the leather with a bit of space in between so the vest can have a bit of flexibility, then make leather straps with buckles to be able to strap it to my body. The rivets would be the only thing on the outside and I dont think they could have sharp edges, the hammered part would also be on the inside. Might have to sew some cloth on top of the metal plates on the inside to protect myself from potential scratches but yeah thats the idea.

Hopefully it passes as heavy armour otherwise buying in greaves and vambraces will be pointless :confused:


#115

Coat of plates are fine for WM, but I’d avoid lamellar specifically due to nation mixing a bit too much.

In terms of groups- depends on what you’re looking for. There’s a lot of groups in Wintermark and most of them tend to be recruiting, I’d personally recommend coming along and asking people IC about why you should join them. Hospitality helps.


#116

With densely packed metal plates, something on each side, flattened rivets, it sounds pretty good. I’d grade it as heavy, but it’s not my call to make.

And the greaves and vambraces are hardly pointless, as they’ll also stop you getting shot/cleaved there :slight_smile: Might I reccomend White Rose apparel, they do some fine, simple plate at reasonable cost.

You may want to drop an email to PD with details and the design, just to get a more official call.


#117

Will do to both suggestions, thanks guys.

I saw a post with wintermark groups so it gives me some kind of an idea but meeting people and asking about halls should be easy enough for a cake holding man ^^

I’ll look for PD’s email when I’m at home and see if I can wave some worries away. By pointless I ment costume wise, metal ones don’t fit that well if it’s chainmail instead, trying to look good while avoiding death narrowly :wink:

Wanted to order the plates, rivets and leatherworking tools this coming wednesday as the e4 is ever closer, start working on it but it’s best to make sure rather then worry later.


#118

Currently playing WM there are looooots if groups recruiting currently, I can’t recommend enough finding a group to play with in the field rather than joining one before you play, by all means make your contacts but find your game a bit and see who you want to hang out with before you commit!

Feel free to swing any questions you might have my way if you want to, if not I may see you at E4!


#119

Years ago, in a different system, I tried making lorica using inverted drinks cans.

Amazing.


#120

It went as follows:

Collect all the empty cans after the gaming club has finished.
Rinse them thoroughly.
Cut the tops and bottoms off, and cut up to open them out. This can be done with standard craft scissors.
Ensure there are no spiky bits around the edge.
Roll them back and forth a few dozen times (several at once) to reverse their curvature.
Gaffa tape round the edges to dull the sharp edges.
Arrange into a series of overlapping plates, and hold in place with gaffa tape on the back.
Using cheap charity shop belts, construct these into a series of lorica-style shoulderpads and gorget.
Have them checked by the ref, who fails the lot as still being far too sharp edged and potentially damaging to people and weaponry.
Chuck the lot in the bin and invest in sturdy riveted leather instead.

Not my most (cash) expensive mistake, but quite annoying.