Looking to make myself a tabard, already got the main fabric I need (few metres of the main colour) but would really appreciate if anybody has any patterns or guides on how to do so.
I’ve seen many online but they seem mainly for reenactment, I’ve seen loads of really nice homemade lookng ones from the various chapters in highguard - something like that would be a perfect reference point. Its a main colur (red) with black trim, rather than a halved or quatered design.
In terms of skill level I am a novice but I have help from people who know how to sew fairly well, so ideally I’d like the bulk of it to be simple stuff that I can do all the labouring for, but a few complicated finishing parts to improve the look are fine as well.
The surcoats I make for Cantiarch’s Hold are made using a rectangle and triangle medieval pattern.
Basically you need 2 long thin rectangles which are shoulder width x length wanted (usually hem about 10 inches above ground to avoid mud), which make front and back, plus 2 triangle gores which are approx 18 inches base x waist to hem measurement.
Cut a curve in the narrow edge or both rectangles for the head (wider if it needs to go over armour), , sew the shoulder seams and then roll the neck edge and hem.
Sew one triangle to each side starting at the hem.
Roll the arm hole edges and hem.
Slit front and back to approx hip height, hem those edges and bottom and you’re done.
Add sigil, braid, chapter badge as needed.
I flat fell all the seams (sew, press seam allowance to one side, roll raw edges in towards stitching and sew down) as surcoats going to battle take some heavy wear. You may want to add wider triangles to anyone planning to wear large skirts or robes underneath for ease but that’s about it.
Basically this, their long rectangle has been folder in half to curt the neck line.
Commercial sewing patterns would be fine there are many around that would fit the bill. Simplicity do one which is for a Knights Templar that would be easy to adapt.
CharlieP’s covered pretty much all you need, but I’ll throw my tuppence in anyway
Consider picking up an old sheet from a charity shop to do a trial surcoat before you cut your good fabric, because wearing ease (how much bigger than your actual body the garment is, so you can do stuff like bend over and breathe) can be tricky to work out.
You can get a good idea of the angle of the shoulder seam and the shape armhole curve, which are the trickiest bits, using a shirt that fits you generously - turn it inside out, iron it flat, pull the sleeve inside the body so you can see where the seam curves, and trace the shoulder line and armhole onto your paper or fabric.
Bias binding is really good for finishing the neck and armholes, and can also be used to finish the front slit (do have a front slit, it makes it so much more swooshy and epic!).
